Tuesday, May 26, 2009

Key West - The Hemingway House

Our trip to Key West was haphazardly put together. In fact, it was so random, I didn't even take any time to research where we were going. (I didn't even plan out the whole trip - after our campsite reservation expired we had no exit strategy...I just had to be home a few days later) But the randomness of the trip and minimal preparation only made it better when we stumbled upon something cool - just as Ernest Hemingway apparently stumbled upon Key West.

From the Hemingway House Web site:

It was on the advice of fellow writer John Dos Pasos in Paris that prompted Hemingway to visit Key West. Upon arrival in Key West via Havana Cuba, the first order of business was to locate the new Ford Roadster Pauline's wealthy Uncle Gus had so generously purchased for them. Because the car had been delayed in transit, the Ford dealership insisted that they take up residence in an apartment located above the showroom. Soon Hemingway established his routine of writing during the early mornings when the temperature was coolest, while taking time to explore his new surroundings in the afternoons. He resumed work on a war story he had started on the passage to Key West. Hemingway worked avidly on his novel in the mornings. The novel, which was published in fall of 1929, was "A Farewell To Arms".

After two seasons in Key West, Pauline's Uncle Gus purchased the house on Whitehead Street for them.

Hemingway did a lot of work in that relaxed environment and he was about the same age as I am now. I suppose if I had Uncle Gus helping me out by purchasing cars and houses as I traveled the world I could have a similarly awesome career. Sadly, I don't have Uncle Gus. I guess I'll have to blaze my own trail.


Meet Hairy Truman. He hopped up on this chair when we first walked in and settled in for his day-long photo shoot.

If you don't already know - I didn't until Josh was telling me about them - these are special cats that roam the property. There are about 60 of them and about half of them are polydactyl, which means they have SIX toes on their front paws. If you click on this photo of Hairy Truman, you should get a good view of his little thumbs. Hemingway was given a six-toed cat and the ones that roam the grounds are descendants.

I also enjoyed seeing this note that was on all the furniture. This is the chair that matches the one Hairy was stretched out on. Seeing as he is a resident, however, I know it didn't apply to him.

Pauline, Uncle Gus' niece and Hemingway's only wife to live in the Key West house, was a fan of chandeliers and they were in nearly every room of the house. this was one of the first I saw and it's fabulous. Not something I'd chose for my own house, but it was beautiful blown glass.

The Hemingway's master bedroom. I loved the bedside lamps shaped like pineapples.

In the master bathroom Archibald MacLeish lounged. I had to shoot his picture because I wrote a paper about his namesake back in the day. And, since he's not someone everyone knows, you should know that Archibald Mac Leish - the man, not the cat - was an American poet who won a few Pulitzers and was politically active. In case you were wondering, the cat names all honor people in Hemingway's life or who share connections with Hemingway's work. Archibald and Ernest were ex-pats together in Paris back in the day. Want to learn more about the cats? http://www.hemingwayhome.com/HTML/our_cats.htm

Some of Hemingway's wartime collection.

Sam checks out the family photos.

My favorite chandelier from Pauline's collection.

Josh trapped behind the limey-coconut guy.

More of the cats. There are four - can you find them? Also, if you want to see them live: http://www.hemingwayhome.com/HTML/cat_cam.htm

From the balcony outside the Hemingway master bedroom you can see the Key West Lighthouse.

Remember the cats I showed you from the balcony? This is the one that was laying on top of the table. (Sorry, I didn't catch his name)

Our tour guide was often stopped by one of the cats searching for a treat.

He was always happy to comply.

Ah...the pool. I only wish we could have jumped in and floated around the rest of the day. It was the first residential pool build in Key West and at 65 feet is still the largest. I recall there was - shall we say - a disagreement between Ernest and Pauline about its construction. If I recall, before Ernest went to be a correspondent during the Spanish Civil War he and his buddies used the yard for smoking cigars and cavorting around late into the night. When he returned to Key West the pool was finished but it was rather expensive. Ernest pulled a penny from his pocket and told her she may as well take his last red cent. He threw it to the ground and Pauline had it mounted into the ground next to the pool:

Oh my God! I found a cat awake! Here he sits just outside the small gift shop.
Listening to the last red cent story next to the pool.

Engaged in the story.

Heading up the wrong way to Hemingway's writing studio that used to be accessible only by a deck off the master bedroom.

Going up the wrong way did give me the chance to get their pictures.

Inside the writer's studio...just as he apparently left it.

Not a bad little writing area. I wouldn't mind it one bit. Hemingway apparently spent his early mornings writing, would go out fishing in the afternoon, drinking into the night and I think he might have slept a little before getting up early again to write.

Another part of his writing studio.

His travel bag where he left it. Looks about as warn out as my own bags...but somehow much cooler.

Art in the studio.

Sam finds a cat laying in the gutter and shows him how to do a Superman impersonation.

Spencer Tracy lazes under a bench near the pool.

A cool flower I found on the grounds.

We went back into the house after the tour and shockingly, Hairy Truman was still napping in the chair.

A fountain out front.

The house...pretty sweet.

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